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A pocket watch is the most mechanical way to tell the time. You pull it out, open the lid, read the dial, and wind it every morning. For a lot of owners that ritual is the point, along with the look: a chain across a vest, or a watch on the desk next to a fountain pen.
The choice comes down to three things. Movement: hand-wound mechanical for the ritual, or quartz if you want no winding. Case style: open face, hunter or demi-hunter. Size: most modern pocket watches are 42 to 53 mm across. Brand matters less than in wristwatches, but build quality and a clear warranty still separate good ones from novelty pieces.
We picked four mechanical pocket watches, from a Swiss Tissot to 17-jewel Charles-Hubert models that make an affordable first pocket watch.
Our top picks at a glance
Tissot Savonnette Mechanical Pocket Watch T83640212Check priceBest Value
Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-S Classic Collection Antiqued Finish Open Face Mechanical Pocket WatchCheck priceBest Gold Tone
Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-G Classic Collection Gold-Plated Antiqued Finish Open Face Mechanical Pocket WatchCheck priceQuick picks
- Best Swiss: Tissot Savonnette Mechanical Pocket Watch T83640212. Best for a Swiss-made mechanical pocket watch with a steel chain.
- Best Value: Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-S Open Face Mechanical Pocket Watch. Best for a classic open face with a see-through back.
- Best Skeleton: Charles-Hubert, Paris 3972-W Mechanical Hand Wind Pocket Watch. Best for a demi-hunter case with a skeleton dial.
- Best Gold Tone: Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-G Gold-Plated Open Face Mechanical Pocket Watch. Best for a warm gold-tone look with a coin edge.
Comparison table
| Pocket watch | Best for | Movement | Case style | Case size | Back | Chain | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tissot Savonnette T83640212 | Swiss | Swiss mechanical, hand-wound | Savonnette (hunter) | 49 mm (listing) | Not listed | Stainless steel chain | Check price |
| Charles-Hubert 3869-S | Value | 17-jewel mechanical hand wind, shock-protected | Open face, antiqued | 47 mm | See-through | Silver-tone chain | Check price |
| Charles-Hubert 3972-W | Skeleton | 17-jewel mechanical hand wind | Double demi-hunter, skeleton dial | 53 mm, 16 mm thick | Not listed | Curb chain | See options |
| Charles-Hubert 3869-G | Gold tone | 17-jewel mechanical hand wind, shock-protected | Open face, antiqued, coin edge | 47 mm | See-through | Gold-tone chain | Check price |
The best pocket watches, reviewed
1. Tissot Savonnette Mechanical Pocket Watch T83640212: Best Swiss
Who it's for: buyers who want a pocket watch from a major Swiss watchmaker.
Tissot is one of the few big Swiss brands still making pocket watches as a regular collection. Its site says it has been making them since 1853 and still manufactures them today, under the Savonnette, Lepine and Pendants names. "Savonnette" is the French term for a hunter case: a hinged lid protects the crystal.
The Amazon listing we link is a Savonnette mechanical in a stainless steel case with a steel chain, listed at 49 mm, reference T83640212, and marked as not discontinued. Tissot's own pages describe its current mechanical Savonnettes as hand-wound Swiss-made watches in 316L stainless steel with mineral glass, in sizes from 48.5 to 49.55 mm. This is the premium pick here, and the one most likely to be serviceable by any watchmaker for decades.
Pros
- Swiss-made by a historic pocket-watch maker
- Hunter case protects the crystal
- Stainless steel case and chain
Cons
- Premium price tier
- Older reference; Tissot's current models use different reference numbers
- Full spec sheet not on the listing
2. Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-S Open Face Mechanical Pocket Watch: Best Value
Who it's for: a first mechanical pocket watch, or a gift that looks older than it is.
Charles-Hubert, Paris is the pocket-watch name you see most often in the US, and the 3869-S is a good example of why. Long Island Watch, which carries the brand, describes a 47 mm silver-tone case with an antiqued finish and an open face, a 17-jewel shock-protected mechanical hand-wind movement, and mineral crystals front and back, so you can see the movement through the case back.
The dial has a chapter ring with black Roman numerals, blue hands and a seconds sub-dial at 9 o'clock, in the style of a classic railroad-era watch. It comes with a silver-tone chain and a gift box. Retailers list a brass case and a lifetime factory warranty. At 47 mm it suits most vest pockets.
Pros
- 17-jewel shock-protected hand-wound movement
- See-through case back
- Chain and gift box included
- Lifetime factory warranty (per retailer)
Cons
- Brass case with silver-tone finish, not steel
- Open face leaves the crystal exposed
Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-S Classic Collection Antiqued Finish Open Face Mechanical Pocket Watch
by Charles-Hubert
3. Charles-Hubert, Paris 3972-W Mechanical Hand Wind Pocket Watch: Best Skeleton
Who it's for: buyers who want to see the movement at work.
The 3972-W, from Charles-Hubert's Premium Collection, combines a double demi-hunter case with a skeleton dial. A demi-hunter lid has a window, so you can read the time with the lid closed, then open it to see the cut-away dial and the 17-jewel hand-wound movement. Its Amazon listings give a 53 mm case, 16 mm thick, and a curb chain with a lobster-claw clasp.
At 53 mm and 16 mm thick, it is the largest watch here. That makes it a strong desk or display piece, but heavier in a shallow pocket. If you want to show it off between wears, see the stand options in our how to store watches guide.
Pros
- Skeleton dial shows the movement
- Demi-hunter window reads the time with the lid closed
- Curb chain included
Cons
- Large and thick at 53 x 16 mm
- Busy dial is harder to read at a glance
Charles-Hubert, Paris 3972-W Premium Collection Mechanical Hand Wind Pocket Watch
by Charles-Hubert
Currently unavailable on Amazon
4. Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-G Gold-Plated Open Face Mechanical Pocket Watch: Best Gold Tone
Who it's for: anyone who wants the classic gold pocket watch look.
The 3869-G is the gold-tone sibling of the 3869-S. Long Island Watch describes a 47 mm gold-tone case with an antiqued finish and a coin edge, the same 17-jewel shock-protected mechanical hand-wind movement, mineral crystals front and back, a chapter ring with black Roman numerals, black hands and a seconds sub-dial at 9 o'clock. It comes with a gold-tone chain and a gift box.
Gold tone suits a brown or tweed waistcoat, and a coin edge adds grip when winding. Plating can wear on edges that rub in a pocket over many years, so keep it in a soft pouch when you are not wearing it.
Pros
- Gold-tone antiqued case with coin edge
- See-through case back
- Matching gold-tone chain
Cons
- Plated finish can wear with heavy use
- Open face leaves the crystal exposed
Charles-Hubert, Paris 3869-G Classic Collection Gold-Plated Antiqued Finish Open Face Mechanical Pocket Watch
by Charles-Hubert
Buying guide: how to choose a pocket watch
Mechanical or quartz
Mechanical pocket watches are hand-wound: you turn the crown every day to tighten the mainspring. Quartz pocket watches run on a battery and need no winding. Almost no pocket watch is automatic, because a rotor needs constant motion that a watch in a pocket does not get. If you are new to the difference, our automatic vs mechanical watch guide explains how each movement stores energy.
Jewels and shock protection
Jewels are synthetic rubies used as bearings at friction points. Seventeen jewels is the classic count for a fully jeweled basic mechanical movement, and it is what all three Charles-Hubert picks list. Shock protection helps the balance survive drops, which matter more for a watch you take in and out of a pocket.
Case style
- Open face: the crystal is exposed, and the crown traditionally sits at 12 o'clock. Easiest to read.
- Hunter (savonnette): a solid lid covers the crystal; press the crown to open it. Best protection.
- Demi-hunter: a lid with a small window or a ring of numerals, so you can read the time closed.
Size and weight
Most modern pocket watches run from about 42 to 53 mm. Around 47 to 49 mm is the sweet spot for a vest pocket. Big skeleton watches look impressive but pull a light jacket pocket down.
Case material and finish
Stainless steel (Tissot) resists wear best. Plated brass (common on affordable pocket watches) can show wear at the edges over the years. An antiqued finish hides small marks better than high polish.
Chain and accessories
All four picks come with a chain. How you attach it depends on what you wear; we cover vests, suits without vests and jeans in how to wear a pocket watch.
Daily care
Wind a mechanical pocket watch once a day, at the same time, until you feel resistance, and keep it away from magnets and hard surfaces. Step-by-step instructions are in how to wind a pocket watch. Pocket watches do not go on a watch winder; winders are designed for automatic wristwatches.
Pocket watch tiers: what to expect
| Tier | What you usually get | Example from this guide | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Quartz or basic mechanical movement, plated case, chain included | Charles-Hubert classic models such as the 3869-S and 3869-G | See options |
| Mid-range | 17-jewel mechanical with display back or skeleton dial, larger case, premium chain | Charles-Hubert Premium Collection 3972-W | See options |
| Premium | Swiss-made mechanical movement, stainless steel case, maker service network | Tissot Savonnette | Check price |
Prices move, so we use tiers rather than numbers. The jump from budget to premium buys you mostly movement quality, case material and long-term serviceability, not a better-looking dial.
Mechanical vs quartz pocket watches
A mechanical pocket watch stores energy in a mainspring that you wind by hand. It needs winding every day and a service every few years, and it is usually less accurate than quartz. In return you get the ritual, a sweeping or ticking seconds hand, and a movement you can see through a display back.
A quartz pocket watch runs on a battery and a vibrating quartz crystal. It needs no winding, keeps better time and costs less, but the battery needs replacing, and there is nothing to look at behind the dial. If the watch is a gift for someone who will wear it once a year at a wedding, quartz avoids the stopped-watch problem. If it is for someone who likes mechanical things, buy mechanical.
Caring for a pocket watch
- Wind it at the same time each day. A full, regular wind gives the steadiest timekeeping.
- Open the lid gently. On hunter and demi-hunter cases, press the crown to release the lid rather than prying it.
- Keep it in its own pocket. Keys and coins scratch crystals and plating.
- Store it on a stand or in a soft pouch. A flat, hard nightstand is where most pocket watches pick up scratches.
- Have it serviced. A mechanical pocket watch needs cleaning and fresh oil every few years, like any mechanical watch. Our guide on how often to service an automatic watch explains what a service involves.
How we chose
We looked for mechanical pocket watches sold in the US from makers with a long track record in pocket watches: Tissot and Charles-Hubert, Paris. Specs come from Tissot's own pages, the brands' Amazon listings and Long Island Watch, a US retailer that publishes full Charles-Hubert descriptions. We did not test these watches hands-on. Where a listing leaves out a spec, we say so. To display a watch between wears, see our pocket watch stand picks. For where pocket watches sit among other watch styles, see our guide to the types of watches.
FAQ
Are pocket watches automatic?
Almost never. An automatic movement winds itself from the motion of your wrist, and a pocket watch sits still in a pocket, so pocket watches are hand-wound mechanical or battery quartz. Every mechanical pick in this guide is hand-wound through the crown.
How often do you wind a pocket watch?
Once a day, at the same time, is the traditional rule for a hand-wound pocket watch. Turn the crown until you feel firm resistance, then stop. Our guide on how to wind a pocket watch covers key-wind and stem-wind models.
What is the difference between an open-face and a hunter pocket watch?
An open-face watch has an exposed crystal, like the Charles-Hubert 3869-S. A hunter case has a hinged metal lid that covers the crystal, and a demi-hunter, like the 3972-W, has a lid with a window so you can read the time without opening it.
What size pocket watch should I buy?
Most modern pocket watches are about 42 to 53 mm across. Around 47 to 49 mm suits most vest pockets and reads easily. The 53 mm, 16 mm thick Charles-Hubert 3972-W makes a bolder statement but adds weight in a shallow pocket.
Do pocket watches come with a chain?
Many do. All four of our picks are sold with a chain, per their listings and retailer descriptions: Tissot's Savonnette with a stainless steel chain, and the Charles-Hubert models with matching chains.
Verdict
If you want one pocket watch for life, Tissot's Savonnette is the pick: Swiss-made, hand-wound and protected by a hunter case. For a first pocket watch or a gift, the Charles-Hubert 3869-S gives you a 17-jewel hand-wound movement, a see-through back and a chain at a fraction of the price. Want to watch the movement? The skeleton 3972-W is the showpiece.